Chinese Clothing Through Dynasties: A Traveler's Guide
A Brief History of Chinese Clothing Through Dynasties
Chinese clothing, with its rich tapestry of colors, styles, and symbolism, offers a fascinating glimpse into the country’s long and complex history. Each dynasty brought its own unique aesthetic and regulations, reflecting the social, political, and economic climate of the time. For a complete overview, see our main guide to Chinese Traditional Clothing. Let’s explore the evolution of Chinese attire through the major dynasties.
Overview of Chinese Clothing History
From the simple garments of the Shang Dynasty to the elaborate robes of the Qing, Chinese clothing has always been more than just a covering. It served as a marker of social status, a symbol of power, and a canvas for artistic expression. The materials used, the colors worn, and the motifs embroidered all conveyed specific meanings. Understanding the history of Chinese clothing provides invaluable insight into Chinese culture itself.
Shang Dynasty Clothing (c. 1600-1046 BCE)
The Shang Dynasty, one of the earliest dynasties in Chinese history, saw the development of basic garment styles. Clothing was typically made from woven hemp or silk for the elite. Simple tunics and skirts were common, with decorations limited to basic patterns and colors. Distinctions in rank were already apparent through the quality of materials and the complexity of adornments.
Zhou Dynasty Clothing (c. 1046-256 BCE)
The Zhou Dynasty further refined clothing traditions. The concept of “Hanfu,” the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese, began to take shape. This typically involved a robe or tunic worn with a sash, and a skirt or trousers. Strict rules governed who could wear what, with the emperor reserving certain colors and symbols for himself. The hierarchical structure of society was clearly reflected in dress.
Qin Dynasty Clothing (221-206 BCE)
The Qin Dynasty, though short-lived, implemented significant standardization, including in clothing. The emperor sought to unify the country, and this extended to attire. Dark colors were favored, and officials wore robes that indicated their rank. The Qin Dynasty laid the groundwork for future dynastic clothing systems.
Han Dynasty Clothing (206 BCE – 220 CE)
The Han Dynasty saw the flourishing of Hanfu. Silk became more widely available, and elaborate designs emerged. Robes with wide sleeves and flowing lines were characteristic of the era. Different colors and accessories denoted social status, and sumptuary laws were strictly enforced. Commoners typically wore simpler, less ornate garments. The shenyi, a type of long robe that combined the tunic and skirt, became a popular style.
Tang Dynasty Clothing (618-907 CE)
The Tang Dynasty is often considered a golden age for Chinese culture, and this is reflected in its clothing. Women’s fashion became particularly diverse and elaborate, with high-waisted dresses, flowing sleeves, and intricate hairstyles. Foreign influences, particularly from Central Asia, also made their mark. Bright colors and bold patterns were popular, and women enjoyed greater freedom in their choice of attire.
Song Dynasty Clothing (960-1279 CE)
The Song Dynasty saw a return to more understated elegance. Simplicity and refinement were valued, and clothing became less elaborate than in the Tang Dynasty. Scholars and officials favored simple robes in muted colors, reflecting their intellectual pursuits. The zhisunfu, a straight-collared robe, became popular among men.
Yuan Dynasty Clothing (1271-1368)
The Yuan Dynasty, established by the Mongols, brought significant changes to Chinese clothing. Mongol styles, such as the changpao (a long robe with a close-fitting collar), were adopted by the ruling class. However, Han Chinese traditions persisted, and many continued to wear Hanfu. The blending of cultures resulted in a unique fusion of styles.
Ming Dynasty Clothing (1368-1644)
The Ming Dynasty saw a revival of Han Chinese traditions, including clothing. Hanfu was reinstated as the official dress, and Mongol styles were discouraged. Elaborate robes with intricate embroidery became fashionable, particularly among the elite. The aofu, a type of overcoat, was a common garment. Strict sumptuary laws dictated the colors and patterns that different social classes could wear.
Qing Dynasty Clothing (1644-1912)
The Qing Dynasty, ruled by the Manchus, brought about the most significant changes to Chinese clothing in centuries. The qipao (also known as cheongsam), a close-fitting, one-piece dress, became the standard attire for women. Men were required to wear Manchu-style robes and hairstyles, such as the queue (a shaved forehead with a long braid in the back). While Han Chinese traditions persisted among some, Manchu styles dominated the court and officialdom. You can learn more about the modern evolution of this iconic garment in our guide to Qipao/Cheongsam: A Guide to Shanghai’s Elegant Dress.
