Hanfu Guide: Explore Styles, History & Where to Wear It in China

What is Hanfu? Defining Characteristics
Hanfu (汉服), literally “Han clothing,” is the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese people. More than just attire, it represents a rich cultural heritage and a connection to China’s historical roots. Unlike modern Western clothing, Hanfu is characterized by its loose-fitting robes, wide sleeves, and a unique system of layering and tying. Key features include the jiaoling youren (交领右衽), a collar that crosses over to the right, and the use of sashes instead of buttons. The flowing silhouette and elegant designs have made Hanfu increasingly popular, both within China and internationally, as a symbol of Chinese identity and aesthetic. For a complete overview, see our main guide to Chinese traditional clothing.
A Brief History of Hanfu Through Dynasties
The history of Hanfu stretches back over three millennia, with its origins dating back to the Shang Dynasty (1600–1046 BC). Throughout successive dynasties, Hanfu evolved, reflecting the prevailing aesthetics, social customs, and technological advancements of each era. The Zhou Dynasty (1046–256 BC) saw the establishment of a basic Hanfu system, while the Qin Dynasty (221–206 BC) standardized clothing styles. The Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD), from which the term “Hanfu” derives, further refined the garment, solidifying its core characteristics. Subsequent dynasties like the Tang, Song, Ming, and Qing each contributed unique elements to Hanfu, resulting in a diverse range of styles and designs. The Qing Dynasty saw the rise of Manchu clothing styles, leading to a decline in the widespread use of Hanfu. However, in recent years, there has been a significant revival of Hanfu, driven by a renewed interest in Chinese culture and heritage. You can explore more about the history of Chinese clothing in A Brief History of Chinese Clothing Through Dynasties.
Different Styles of Hanfu
The beauty of Hanfu lies in its diversity, with various styles emerging throughout history to suit different occasions, social classes, and regional preferences. Here are a few notable examples:
Ruqun (襦裙)
The Ruqun is perhaps one of the most recognizable Hanfu styles, particularly popular among women. It consists of a short jacket (襦, ru) worn over a skirt (裙, qun). This style was prevalent from the Warring States period to the Sui Dynasty and came in various forms, such as the Qixiong Ruqun (齐胸襦裙), where the skirt is tied high up under the bust, creating a flattering silhouette.
Yaopao (襻膊)
The Yaopao, also known as banbi, is a sleeveless or short-sleeved jacket worn over a robe or shirt. It was commonly worn by laborers and soldiers due to its practicality and ease of movement. While less formal than other Hanfu styles, the Yaopao reflects a practical and functional aspect of traditional Chinese clothing.
Daopao (道袍)
The Daopao, or “Taoist robe,” is a long, flowing robe often associated with scholars, monks, and those seeking a more relaxed and contemplative lifestyle. While the name suggests a connection to Taoism, Daopao was worn by people of various philosophical and religious backgrounds. It features wide sleeves, a loose fit, and often incorporates elements of Confucian and Taoist symbolism in its design.
Where to Buy or Rent Hanfu in China
Experiencing Hanfu firsthand is a must for any traveler interested in Chinese culture. Fortunately, there are several places in China where you can buy or rent Hanfu.
Recommended cities and shops
- Xi’an: As the ancient capital of China, Xi’an is a fantastic place to find authentic Hanfu. The Muslim Quarter and the area around the City Wall offer numerous shops selling and renting Hanfu.
- Chengdu: Known for its laid-back atmosphere and rich cultural heritage, Chengdu boasts several Hanfu shops, particularly around the Jinli Ancient Street.
- Shanghai: While Shanghai is a modern metropolis, you can still find Hanfu shops in traditional areas like the Yu Garden and Tianzifang.
- Beijing: As the current capital, Beijing offers a mix of traditional and modern Hanfu styles. Look for shops near the Forbidden City and in the hutongs.
Online options and considerations
For those who prefer to shop online, platforms like Taobao and Tmall offer a vast selection of Hanfu. However, it’s crucial to carefully research sellers and read reviews to ensure quality and authenticity. Consider the fabric, construction, and historical accuracy of the garment before making a purchase.
Experiencing Hanfu: Photo Shoots and Cultural Events
One of the most popular ways to immerse yourself in Hanfu culture is by participating in a photo shoot. Many studios across China offer Hanfu rental and photography packages, allowing you to dress up in traditional attire and capture stunning photos against beautiful backdrops. Some studios even provide makeup and hairstyling services to complete the look.
Another way to experience Hanfu is by attending cultural events and festivals. Many cities host Hanfu-themed events, featuring parades, performances, and workshops. These events offer a unique opportunity to learn more about the history and significance of Hanfu and to connect with other enthusiasts. You can also consider visiting historical sites and gardens while wearing Hanfu to enhance the experience and create memorable moments. If you’re interested in dressing respectfully in China, you may want to check Cultural Etiquette: Wearing Traditional Chinese Clothing Respectfully.